Elio Altare is a living legend of Piedmont — one of the original Barolo Boys who revolutionised Italian winemaking in the 1980s and never looked back. His Barbera d'Alba is the perfect introduction to the man's genius: vivid ruby, with morello cherry, violets and a lick of vanilla from oak, all underpinned by Barbera's signature bright acidity. Weeknight Piedmont. Yes please.