Nic Peterkin of L.A.S. Vino is one of Margaret River's most singular winemakers, making small-batch wines with a natural, hands-off approach that lets the fruit do the talking. CBDB — Chenin Blanc Done Beautifully, more or less — is textured, layered and alive: quince, honeyed apple, beeswax and a crackling streak of acidity that makes it impossible to put down. Western Australia's best-kept secret is getting out.