Next to Wilimee’s vineyard in the Macedon Ranges lies an ancient greenstone quarry, once mined by the Wurundjeri people to make stone axes. When winemaker Ben Ranken and his wife Sally Richardson bought the old Portree vineyard in 2013, they restored its Indigenous name. Planted in 1982 on rare Cambrian soils at 600 metres, the estate is devoted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, made with minimal intervention. Ben’s inventive approach, which includes ageing some Pinot underwater for five years, earned him the Young Gun of Wine Vigneron award in 2021. His “By” range is where he plays more freely, and this blend pairs cool-climate Pinot Noir’s perfume with Syrah’s spice and depth. Expect red cherry, raspberry and plum, with cracked pepper and savoury herbs, on a light, juicy, fine-boned palate. Serve it slightly chilled.